All Eyes on Me

Back in March, I started at a new job. On my first day, I shadowed the teacher I was replacing, Hannah. In one class, a kid sneezed and everyone turned to look at me with anticipation in their eyes. I said “Bless you!” and the kids all looked amazed and then turned to Hannah who said “I told you that’s what she’d say!”

I’m the first and only foreigner to work at my language school. For many of my students and coworkers, I’m the only foreigner they have any regular contact with. Naturally, this led to some curiosity about me. Before I started, Hannah got a lot of questions about what I would be like. While she didn’t know me personally, she did know that I’m American and she herself lived in the US for 7 years. So, Hannah decided to share one particular custom that foreigners have that Koreans don’t: saying “Bless you” (or anything really) after someone sneezes.

While I’ve lived in Korea before, I never noticed it but Koreans don’t say anything when someone sneezes. They just ignore it and go about their business. I looked this up and it turns out that the China and Japan also don’t have sneeze related sayings but most other countries do.

It’s been five months and everyone still turns to look at me when someone sneezes. I wish I could stay quiet but it’s so ingrained in me that I always reflexively say “Bless you” and everyone giggles. I kinda wish Hannah had kept this nugget of cultural information to herself. 

This is how I feel when someone sneezes at work

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First Birthdays and Fortune Telling

A few months ago, I was invited to a first birthday party. I immediately knew it would be fancy since it was at a nice buffet and not at the child’s home or at something like Chuck E. Cheese’s. I was right.

When I walked into the private room, I knew this wasn’t going to be like the other kids’ birthdays I’d been to. The party room had a stage, two hosts, a dressing room, and a sitting room.  Mom and Dad wore matching red and white hanboks and the Birthday Boy wore a multicolored hanbok. Everyone’s hair and makeup had been professionally done.

The big event at the party was the doljabi (돌잡이). For this, parents present the birthday boy/girl with several items on a tray. He or she picks one and it determines his/her future. At this party, the tray had money (wealth), a big spool of thread (long life), a pen (scholar/intellectual), and a mouse (tech career).  

I didn’t realize how big of a deal this was until the baby didn’t pick anything. His parents presented him with the tray several times and he didn’t pick anything. He just clutched his father and looked confused. Eventually, after having the tray presented 20+ times, the baby picked the money. When he picked the money, the Dad started crying. I guess there was a lot riding on this. Personally, I like to think that the baby didn’t pick anything because he will have a unique path in life that can’t be easily summed up in one object.

Overall, I enjoyed the party. The food was great and it’s nice knowing the Birthday Boy will grow up to be rich. 

The Stage Area

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My Party Favor

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It's Not What You Think...

One day, during my early days in Korea, I encountered a sign with a swastika on it. I found it really confusing because why would Koreans be anti-Semitic? The average Korean isn’t even remotely familiar with Judaism. To dislike something, you have to know it exists.

After doing a little research, I found out that Korea is not littered with Nazis. It turns out that the swastika has been used for the last 5,000 years or so. It’s used in Buddhism, Hinduism, Jainism, and Odinism. In Korea, it’s used in Buddhist temples.

I, for one, am glad that Korea is not crawling with Nazis. I’m not sure Indiana Jones is around to deal with it. 

Near my Apartment

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Attack of the Killer Hornets

Last week, as I was teaching a class, I heard a funny little plop. I looked at the floor and saw that a spider had fallen. I looked up to see where it had come from and saw a giant, flying insect perched on a light fixture. This was the biggest insect I’ve ever seen. I’m from South Florida and we have big palmetto bugs. This creature looked like it could eat a palmetto bug with no problem.

I guess I stared at the bug a little too long because my 3^rd grade students, Emily and Andrew, followed my gaze up to the ceiling. Well, as soon as they saw the insect, they jumped under the table. I crouched down to ask them if they were ok and Emily tried to pull me under too. The kids don’t speak much English but they did tell me “Bug…kill…people!” I wasn’t sure if this was true or not but that was a really big bug. It looked like a bee, but a bee who worked out and took steroids. I needed an adult.

I grabbed Emily and Andrew, took them into the hallway, and shut the classroom door. I found a Korean coworker and explained the situation to her. She grabbed a broom, marched into the classroom, and immediately came back out. It turns out that the bug is dangerous and there was a nest on the window sill.

My coworker called 119, the Korean emergency number. The next day, someone from the city came to kill the insect and dispose of the nest. Once he was finished, my classroom could be used again.

I later asked what kind of insect that was. My coworker told me it was a wasp but that was no ordinary wasp. She showed me a translation on her phone and the name was the Vespa mandarinia or the Asian Giant Hornet.

I looked up the Asian Giant Hornet and found that Emily and Andrew were right -  it can kill people. For an adult to die, they typically have to be stung dozens of times. For a child or an adult with an allergy, it’s less but seems to vary from person to person. Either way, it’s a scary insect.

I’m really glad that Emily and Andrew knew what to do. Not having grown up in this country, I had no idea that such an insect even existed. 

Sweden in Korea

According to my contract, my job comes with a semi-furnished apartment and a semi-furnished apartment is exactly what I got. The apartment came with a bed, a tv and stand, and a wardrobe. I needed a few more pieces of furniture but I didn’t really know where to go so I went to Ikea in Gwangmyeong.

Ikea in Korea is exactly like Ikea in the US, which is probably like Ikea everywhere else. You walk through a never ending maze of furniture, eat lunch, walk through the knickknacks, and end at the flatpack boxes. Normally, I’d take my boxes home in my car but I don’t have a car in Korea. I decided to have my furniture delivered.

Ikea had loads of English speaking clerks. I simply waited in line and a woman with great English started processing my order. Everything was fine until we came to the delivery options. It turns out that Ikea can only set up delivery for sometime in the next seven days. I was going away the next weekend so I needed something for the 9^th or 10^th day. This was impossible for them to schedule so I left without buying anything.

I got home, angry that I’d gone all the way to Ikea and came home empty-handed. I vowed to never go back. Well, that lasted about two more weeks. I tried to order from Gmarket and couldn’t make it work. None of my usual shopping spots carried furniture. I got tired of sitting on the floor and I went back to Ikea.

My second trip was way smoother because I knew what to expect. I already had my furniture picked out and I was prepared for the 7 day delivery thing. I wasn’t, however, prepared for the fact that Ikea cannot give you a delivery time if you’re not in Seoul. This meant that I could get a delivery anywhere between 9am and 9pm on the appointed day. I wasn’t happy with this but I dealt with it.

On the appointed day, my Ikea furniture came. The delivery arrived at 5:40pm, 8 hours and 40 minutes into the 12 hour delivery window. I’m happy with how the furniture came out but getting it here was definitely a mission. 

Directions to Ikea

1. From the Gwangmyeong station, take the east (I think) exit.

2.  Turn right and go under the covered walkway towards Costco. You'll see the Costco shortly.

3. Cross the small street and walk along the side of Costco until you get to the corner.

4. At the corner, turn to the left and you'll see Ikea and the Lotte Premium Outlets. Enjoy your flatpack furniture!

Keep Your Knees Covered

I’ve been coming and going to Korea since 2009. This last time, I was gone from 2013 to 2017. Somewhere in that time, a new habit started. Korean women now cover their knees when they sit down while wearing a skirt or dress.

In Korea, men and women are free to wear whatever they so choose. Now, sleeveless or lowcut tops are frowned upon but they aren’t illegal. A common outfit here is a miniskirt and a button-down blouse.

Since miniskirts are so prevalent, I don’t get the blanket over the knees. If you can see my knees while I’m standing, why are they suddenly offensive when I’m seated?

I looked this up on Google and found a few comments about this. Most seem to agree that this is done because, when seated skirts or dresses ride up a bit. If you’re wearing a micromini, this could be problematic. The blanket allows you to cross and uncross your legs without flashing anyone.

The logic behind this habit makes sense but it’s really hot outside. I don’t want to cover my knees with a fleece blanket. I have heard that some women carry scarves for this so they have something light and stylish. I’d be more inclined to do this but I never wear anything short enough to need it.

A basket of blankets at a coffee shop. I saw several women using them to cover their legs. 

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The pedicurist covered my legs for me. My shorts were not at all short.

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Becoming the Martha Stewart of Korea

Living in Korea means that some things require an adjustment. For example, I’ve gotten used to pretty much never knowing what’s going on. I just look around, see if I’m in immediate danger, and go from there. That, however, is something I expected. What I didn’t expect was to have to adjust my cooking.

When I first came, I knew I’d have to make some substitutions in cooking.  I didn’t expect Korean grocery stores to carry all of the same products. I’d read that cheese is less common so I knew not to expect a big selection of cheese at the grocery store. I’d also read that different spices were available and that more international products (like tortillas or hummus) are difficult to find. To combat this, I bring my favorite spices with me and improvise with the rest.

While I was ready to make ingredient substitutions, I wasn’t prepared to alter my style of cooking. Korean homes don’t have ovens and I never realized how much I used the oven until I got here. I’d read that you can easily buy an oven though. I tried to do this but really, only toaster ovens are readily available. I can’t bake a cake or roast a chicken in a toaster oven.

Since I didn’t have an oven, I had to learn to cook everything on the stovetop. I’ve even learned to make a few no-bake desserts using ingredients that are easy to find here. This wasn’t so bad when I lived in the big apartment with the 4 burner stove. Now, however, I live in a smaller place with a 2 burner stove.

The 2 burner stove brings even more challenges to cooking in Korea. Now, I have to use readily available ingredients, cook everything on the stovetop, and juggle my pots and pans to ensure that everything is hot and ready at the same time. To accomplish this last one, I’ve started making a lot of combo bowls. For example, on Monday, I wanted meat, rice, beans, and vegetables. Well, I made a stew-like dish with these items. It was easier to combine everything than to try to make them in 2 burner increments. The resulting stew actually tasted pretty good but it wasn’t the prettiest meal I’ve ever made.

Cooking in Korea is an adjustment I’ve had to make. It’s an adjustment, however, that will make me better. If I can learn to consistently make good meals on a small 2 burner stove, I’ll be giving Martha Stewart a run for her money in no time. 

Juggling 3 pots and pans

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I combined my zucchini and my pork to maximize burners

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 The resulting combo bowl

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Monday's stew-like concoction

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The spices I brought from America. I think my Abuela would approve of all of the Goya seasoning packets.

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